Keri Downing Moser, owner and chef at IvyWild in Sewanee, has been named a Rising Star by StarChefs, a magazine for culinary insiders. In its recent survey of culinary professionals in Kentucky and Tennessee, Moser was selected as one of the chefs who represents the vanguard of the contemporary American dining scene.
From Louisville to Nashville and Memphis, the StarChefs team visited chefs and artisans across eight cities and small towns, considering more than 100 candidates in Kentucky and Tennessee through in-person tastings and interviews.
“We have an amazing community of restaurants and food service professionals in Sewanee. We plan events together and promote dining in the Village,” Moser said upon learning of the award. “It is gratifying to know this award is announced nationally. I want it to draw attention to what we’re doing here. This is such an extraordinary place to live, learn, play and eat.”
In its review, StarChefs wrote: “We’ll go out on a limb. IvyWild is the best little restaurant you’ve never heard of. It’s hidden well enough in the 2,000-ish-person mountain town of Sewanee, Tennessee, but we guarantee it’s worth pulling off exit 134 for a chance to eat Chef Keri Moser’s playful, offbeat cuisine.
“Moser sees compositions in colors and landscapes, and she works backward to edit in ingredients and techniques, building her plates with improbably good and often wild flavor combinations. Moser nods occasionally to the region’s Southern foodways—and supports them wholeheartedly as a champion of local farmers—but her food reflects a deep curiosity, an artistic bent, and a creative streak that’s unencumbered by the culinary establishment or her small-town status. She’s defining her own path, one that more chefs should dare to follow,” the review concluded.
StarChefs wrote that the dishes that “clinched it” for them were: Smoked Salmon, Cracked Wheat and Black Barley, Elberton Blue Cheese, Tomatillos, Romanesco and Chamomile-Lemon Aïoli; and Pork Shoulder, Pickled Peaches, Cornbread, Foie Gras Butter and Sorghum Vinaigrette.
Moser said, “Food is so much more than sustenance—it can be an experience, it’s exciting, it’s art, it’s community (both in and outside the restaurant) and I want to share that.” Chefs identified as Rising Stars “have strong, compelling culinary philosophies, are able to see beyond the four walls of their restaurant, and are committed to fostering a culinary community by sharing their knowledge with fellow professionals,” according to StarChef editors. “Ultimately, creativity, ambition, exquisite presentation and, most important, delicious food wins a chef the designation of StarChefs Rising Star. They are the future of American cuisine.”
“It is extremely important to me to know as much as possible about the ingredients I use to feed my friends, family and community,” Moser said. “Having a personal relationship with the farmers and food artisans makes that possible. The Cumberland Farmers’ Market and South Cumberland Food Hub are a key part of our success—they help provide optimum conditions for the farmers to succeed. Helping in the effort to make sure my community and IvyWild have access to a premium, responsible food supply is a critical goal.”
The Community Action Committee is one of Moser’s favorite food-related charities. She said, “Sewanee is a little bubble of privilege in a deeply depressed area. The CAC works to make sure there is food available for people who need it, whether that’s through boxes of groceries or organizing community meals. We host some of the community meals at IvyWild.”
IvyWild opened in 2010 in the building that once housed the old steam laundry at 36 Ball Park Road. It is open Thursday through Sunday evenings.
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